If the swedge joint on a cheaper flange or retainer were letting go then no, the shaft might appear to drift but also hold the blade. Also, when I did turn on the blade, it didn't vibrate/shimmy at all. After I noticed that it wasn't back in the same spot, I reach into the saw and tried to move everything around and it was all solid and didn't move. I have no idea why the blade was drifting.
However, if I found a good deal on a cabinet saw, I may not be able to say no to it. That saw that I just had was a good size so I am leaning towards another contractors saw. Once all of my tools are put away, they have to fit in roughly a single car bay of my garage with a few others things as well.
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I don't know if I have the space for a full cabinet saw. Here's a great thread on another forum showing how someone designed a stand and an outfeed table for it: Their fences move via a set of cogs on both ends of it that are joined by a rigid axle. Wouldn't the blade be literally flopping around if things were this bad? The latter is usually accompanied by vibration and both scenarios are dangerous. Jigs and table fixtures can make even a small saw quite versatile.įWIW a blade drifting on the arbor is either a loose nut & flange combo or the arbor bearings have drastically worn. Otherwise any of the prebuilt contractor saws will cut wood and really only limit the user on cut depth and speed. Otherwise that's a no-brainer decision (if affordable) assuming that you're going to get into making lots of stuff. The only thing stopping me from trying to persuade JM into getting a cabinet saw is that you still need to build them -that is assemble the wings and fence plus calibrate both to run true.
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